Some Thoughts on Wine: Tips for Fine Dining Waiters Part 2 of 2

Without getting too bogged down in details, the French have simply been growing grapes for centuries.  They know what grows well where and know their “terroir”.  That’s why they developed a system (AOC) to codify their tradition and experience into a legal framework.   In France, one cannot simply plant Chardonnay in Bordeaux, and Cabernet in Burgundy.  For one they don’t grow well outside their regions of origin, plus they have a strong centuries old tradition of grape cultivation and strong interest in protecting their reputations.

Burgundy: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir

Bordeaux: Cabernet and Merlot plus some others.

Northern Rhone Valley: Syrah

Southern Rhone Valley: Grenache plus others to create a signature blend.

In the New World where the wine industry only took off in the last 40 years, there are now legal guidelines that follow the AOC model.  They are called AVA’s (American Viticultural Area).  This offers growers and winemakers the same panache to protect and foster the emerging reputations of their wines.

In California we have regions described by geography and demarcation of physical-political boundaries. 

Example: Napa Valley is 3 things at once.

1)   a county

2)   a valley

3)   an American Viticultural Area.

There used to be a lot of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in Napa Valley proper, but the results were mixed.  Succeeding generations of wine makers realized it need a cooler climate to thrive.  The reason behind this is simple.  Burgundy France, where Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are from, grow at a high latitude (47˚).  It’s cold.  FYI quality production of Pinot Noir has moved to Oregon.  Willamette Valley is the same latitude as Burgundy. 

So, if one wants to grow quality Chardonnay and Pinot noir grapes in California, one must find a cool climate.  That’s why you will see wines labeled Carneros, Sonoma coast, Santa Rita Hills.  These are all AVAs and they are all situated where the fog can roll in and cool the vineyard.

What’s interesting is that grapes grow well in many areas of California.  The soil and weather is simply fantastic.  The grapes ripen easily, but we know that it’s not just sunshine and soil.  If that was the case, all the quality production could be done in the San Joaquin Valley.  If it’s too hot the grapes have too much sugar, or they can get bruised from the sun.  That’s why they grow table grapes and raisins in the Central Valley.  The one notable exception is Zinfandel.  It loves hot weather so it grows well there. 

Not all grapes are the same.  There are red grapes and green/yellow grapes.  All grape juice runs clear.  Color is extracted by leaving the grapes in contact with each other so the clear juice starts to absorb color and tannin from the skins, seeds and stems.  Red wine is made from red grapes and white wine is made from green/yellow grapes.  Rose, or blush wine is made from red grapes that have been lightly crushed and/or not left in contact with the skins for a long time.